About the Leathers
Vegetable-Tanned Leather
Vegetable-tanned leather is one of the earliest leatherworking techniques, using tannins naturally derived from tree bark and plants.
Unlike chrome-tanned leather—which is optimized for mass production—vegetable-tanned leather preserves the natural fiber structure and grain of the hide. It responds exceptionally well to handcrafting, and its surface gradually develops a rich patina through use.
Why I Work Vegetable-Tanned Leather
- clean, crisp edge work
- long-lasting hand-stitched construction
- natural patina development
- honest materials that improve with age
Consortium of Vegetable-Tanned Leather in Tuscany
The vegetable-tanning tradition in Tuscany has developed over several centuries, forming a highly refined craft culture rooted in family-run tanneries and long-established techniques.
The Pelle Conciata al Vegetale in Toscana — the Consortium of Italian Vegetable-Tanned Leather — was founded in 1994 by a small group of Tuscan tanneries dedicated to preserving the region’s centuries-old tanning tradition. Over time, the consortium has grown to include more than twenty member tanneries, all located in the historic leather-tanning district between Florence and Pisa—the only Italian region specialized in producing premium vegetable-tanned leather.
These tanneries craft 100% natural, vegetable-tanned hides, using time-honored methods that require patience, skill, and deep artisanal knowledge. The result is leather that combines tradition and modern craftsmanship, adaptable to a wide range of high-quality leather goods. And we can recognise them by the distinctive hand-shaped certification mark.
- Conceria Walpier — In its natural shade, Article Buttero is the vegetable-tanned leather I use most often. It has a firm, structured temper, a warm natural sheen, and develops an exceptional patina that deepens beautifully with use. Widely regarded in the hand-stitched leathercraft community for its outstanding performance, Buttero offers both durability and refined aesthetics that continue to improve over time.
- Badalassi Carlo — Among all pebbled vegetable-tanned leathers, Minerva Box and its refined variant, Minerva Box Luxury, are my personal favorites. Both leathers feature naturally formed, fine-grained textures achieved through the traditional “vacchetta” vegetable-tanning process. They offer an exceptionally supple handfeel, making them ideal for leather goods that benefit from a softer and more flexible structure.
- La Perla Azzurra — Old England is one of La Perla Azzurra’s signature vegetable-tanned leathers, known for its distinctive hand-rubbed finish and rich, traditional character. The surface carries subtle tonal variations created through meticulous manual processing, giving each piece a naturally aged, heritage-inspired appearance straight out of the tannery.
